Home heating automation

scamalert wrote: »

Not to interupt on wiring diagrams, does anyone know what way does one transfer Hive heating setup ownership to different email account/person ?
logged in onto hive site but seems if not mistaken its not possible for one to change email or any of the original details, and think requires a call to them, but just want to double check here if anyone has it done previously and what way did you do it. thx

You won't like these replies, but there is an answer in there somewhere, if you can get the change email address link in your account enabled.

https://community.hivehome.com/s/question/0D50J00004mn6AaSAI/how-do-i-unregister-my-account-and-remove-the-link-between-the-account-and-hive-hub

https://community.hivehome.com/s/question/0D50J00004dT07FSAS/i-have-moved-into-a-house-with-hive-and-cant-register-it-with-the-app

baldshin wrote: »

Feck, it was up and running. Now I realise it fires up for about 3 minutes and then goes off. No heat going to the rads. May need to get a professional in I think.

Is the circulation pump running ?

This is a heating automation for dummies question.

Semi d, with 9 radiators and a boiler that I switch on by a switch on the wall that looks like a light switch. Saw some discounts on Amazon.

For example, if I bought the item below, plus 7 other TRVs, would this device replace my "light switch" on the wall so that it can turn on the boiler automatically. And install a TRV on each radiator to control room temp?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071FGDGKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_b6zHFbSNC01YD

KingCong wrote: »

Huge discounts on Drayton Wiser on Amazon, for example their 3 zone kit is down to 79GBP: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075GNJ7ZN/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_5ixHFbQNEMCDY?th=1

Been thinking of replacing my EPH R37-RF / Ember with this for a long time, gonna finally pull the trigger on this. The installation instructions make it sound simple, is it literally just a matter of removing the EPH programer and attaching the Drayton to its wall plate? Are the wall plates compatible? Sounds too easy to me, would there be any wiring involved? I have a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 24i system boiler with 3 EPH motorised zone valves for upstairs, downstairs and HW.

Current wall plate pics attached
https://imgur.com/a/0JP5w8L
https://imgur.com/a/e5Jmt9M

The plate seems to be the same but would have to look at both a bit more. Looking at your pictures the L and N seem reversed on the Drayton hub. Easy enough to fix though.
The amazon link you have is for a combi boiler. Not sure if your is conventional or Combi. Conventional one is same price https://www.amazon.co.uk/Drayton-Wiser-Multi-Zone-Thermostat-Radiator/dp/B075GSQDZF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=drayton%2Bwiser%2B2%2Bchannel%2Bkit&qid=1602592753&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOE02MTBNTkhYT081JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODc3MTMwMUdBOE9WRzFRN0E4RyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzQ3OTAyMkxIWjdZM1pKWllBQSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
which is an absolute steal. I put a Drayton system in during the summer and am happy with it so far. You won't get better for the price.

Mickeroo wrote: »

It would probably be fine, but take a look at the Drayton Wiser stuff linked above. On sale today for less than that and meant to be a very good system.

Thanks for the reply. Is that the basic concept of how either system would work? I can't stress the dummies piece of my question enough

KingCong wrote: »

Huge discounts on Drayton Wiser on Amazon, for example their 3 zone kit is down to 79GBP: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075GNJ7ZN/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_5ixHFbQNEMCDY?th=1

Been thinking of replacing my EPH R37-RF / Ember with this for a long time, gonna finally pull the trigger on this. The installation instructions make it sound simple, is it literally just a matter of removing the EPH programer and attaching the Drayton to its wall plate? Are the wall plates compatible? Sounds too easy to me, would there be any wiring involved? I have a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 24i system boiler with 3 EPH motorised zone valves for upstairs, downstairs and HW.

Current wall plate pics attached
https://imgur.com/a/0JP5w8L
https://imgur.com/a/e5Jmt9M

Wall plates different, but swapping is self explanatory.

christy c wrote: »

This is a heating automation for dummies question.

Semi d, with 9 radiators and a boiler that I switch on by a switch on the wall that looks like a light switch. Saw some discounts on Amazon.

For example, if I bought the item below, plus 7 other TRVs, would this device replace my "light switch" on the wall so that it can turn on the boiler automatically. And install a TRV on each radiator to control room temp?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071FGDGKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_b6zHFbSNC01YD

This Drayton Kit 2, £57,
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075GRPZQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4FCHFbZMHWDNA
Plus up to 9 rads at £40 each,
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075GNG6QF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OICHFb5YWN2BP

If you already have manual TRVs on the rads, it's a breeze to install. If not, each rad will need a valve changed to a pin type for TRVs, €5.95 from Screwfix
https://www.screwfix.ie/p/eph-controls-trvb15-white-angled-trv-body-only-15mm-x-1-5/877hp

You don't state if you have independent control of HW, or if it always heats when the boiler fires. In either case, this will continue, with HW only when the boiler is fired by a HW timed event, as all TRVs will be closed.

christy c wrote: »

Thanks a million. I think this Drayton is the same and would work? Just has 2 TRVs included so seems better value.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075GSQDZF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_HYCHFb5TVKPRZ

Don't have the manual TRVs so would need the screwfix items you mentioned.

Don't have independent control of HW but makes sense that it would only heat if TRVs are closed.

Thanks again, great info

You're spot on. That stat/ TRV bundle is only £87, £7 more thar the price of the two TRVs. Add 7 more at £40 each, ( or buy 1 plus 3 more stat kits, keep the TRVs and sell the 3 stats and receivers on donedeal). Either way, great value. Getting the valve bodies changed may be pricey if the old valve bodies are not compression type, and if the existing pipe nuts and compression rings have to be removed. A days work for a competent plumber.

Thanks for the responses, so to clarify I'd just have to swap the live & neutral around in first two slots and switch my current Z1(which is HW) to slot 4 on the Wiser and my current Z2(Downstairs) to slot 3 on the Wiser, with the Upstairs zone in slot 5.




This is the one I was looking at, think its fine for a system boiler? If I was to get this and a rad TRV for one room (baby room), could that TRV call for heat if the wireless thermostat for the zone its in is already at/above the set temp?

christy c wrote: »

Thanks a million, one final question. Would the current "light switch" that turns on the boiler at the moment be replaced by the Drayton device? There also is a switch on the boiler but no external thermostat.

Yes, at the simplest, the wireless receiver relay will be positioned in that space, assuming there is full mains power available. Otherwise it can be positioned next to the boiler. There are two outputs on the relay, HW and CH, these can be joined so either fires the boiler, meaning HW is heated for either event. It would help to know how this switch is wired to the boiler, it might be the boiler power supply, or it might be the SL ( switched live) used to signal the boiler, which has a seperate permanent power supply.

KingCong wrote: »

Thanks for the responses, so to clarify I'd just have to swap the live & neutral around in first two slots and switch my current Z1(which is HW) to slot 4 on the Wiser and my current Z2(Downstairs) to slot 3 on the Wiser, with the Upstairs zone on slot5...

.... If I was to get this and a rad TRV for one room (baby room), could that TRV call for heat if the wireless thermostat for the zone its in is already at/above the set temp?

Yes and Yes. All orher rads in that zome will heat of course if the TRV overrides the zone stat

deezell wrote: »

Yes and Yes. All orher rads in that zome will heat of course if the TRV overrides the zone stat

Thanks very much for the information.

john_doe. wrote: »

I have question on attached, what happens if you have both inputs providing live feed to pin 14. Would there not be 230V from both sides coming into pin 14 then?

Yes there would be, which is perfectly ok. Either source, (Timer+Stat of Zone 1) or (Stove relay closed+Cylinder Stat satisfied) will power the pump for Zone 1. This is a pumped system btw, no zone valves. Mains 220v on either input comes from the same live feed, so there's no conflict if both sources are live. What's happening here is Zone 1 pump is normally powered by Zone 1 Timer through its Stat, (or just a smart stat with timing built in,). When any zone pump output goes live, a 220v live is sent to the boiler to fire it. When the stove is lit, it originally heats the HW cylinder only, but as its temperature increases, the stove stat closes. if no zone pump is already active to draw away the heat, and the HW cylinder has reached maximum HW temperature, the Aux relay (81), which closes also when the stove stat closes, sends 220v from (75) to (74) to the Zone 1 pump, drawing away the stove heat, even if the zone 1 stat is satisfied. This is necessary as the stove can't be controlled by a stat, it just keeps burning. Should someone run a bath and the HW cylinder cools, the cylinder stat will open and allow the full output of the stove to be available for HW only. Meantime, the oil boiler can cut in and out at the behest of any of the other CH zones, including a timed HW one. The lex box makes wiring logically easy, with fast clip connectors for each device, timer, stat, pump, etc.
EDIT; Note also that as long as the stove is hot enough to close the stove stat and if the optional cylinder stat is satisfied, contacts 71 to 73 mute the oil boiler, and bring in Zone 2 pump, so all rads get a share of the stove heated flow.

deezell wrote: »

Yes there would be, which is perfectly ok. Either source, (Timer+Stat of Zone 1) or (Stove relay closed+Cylinder Stat satisfied) will power the pump for Zone 1. This is a pumped system btw, no zone valves. Mains 220v on either input comes from the same live feed, so there's no conflict if both sources are live. What's happening here is Zone 1 pump is normally powered by Zone 1 Timer through its Stat, (or just a smart stat with timing built in,). When any zone pump output goes live, a 220v live is sent to the boiler to fire it. When the stove is lit, it originally heats the HW cylinder only, but as its temperature increases, the stove stat closes. if no zone pump is already active to draw away the heat, and the HW cylinder has reached maximum HW temperature, the Aux relay (81), which closes also when the stove stat closes, sends 220v from (75) to (74) to the Zone 1 pump, drawing away the stove heat, even if the zone 1 stat is satisfied. This is necessary as the stove can't be controlled by a stat, it just keeps burning. Should someone run a bath and the HW cylinder cools, the cylinder stat will open and allow the full output of the stove to be available for HW only. Meantime, the oil boiler can cut in and out at the behest of any of the other CH zones, including a timed HW one. The lex box makes wiring logically easy, with fast clip connectors for each device, timer, stat, pump, etc.

Thanks I had a go at laying out the wiring as per the attached. I just didn't no what would happen if the drayton was firing live 230V into the pin and then the aux output was flowing 230v into the same pin.

south wrote: »

3 eph zone valves installed

Then Drayton Kit 3 is perfect. It's gone back up in price though from that deal earlier. Now £204.