Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Complete N00b but getting house rewired

Options
2

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,456 ✭✭✭The high horse brigade


    Vegeta wrote: »
    Any decent Irish suppliers of this stuff? They don't seem mad money so probably worth doing now while I can.

    Kellihers for the cabinet and patch panel, they're nationwide
    http://kellihers.com/

    Tp link do decent affordable rackmount switches, get a gigabit unmanaged one on Amazon 16, 24 or 48, I'm not sure how many ports you need. It can be added later you could get something cheap and cheerful and add better later


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,394 ✭✭✭✭Vegeta


    Walls being chased today. Just wanted to bump this thread to say thanks for all the input.

    Any last minute pearls of wisdom for me?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 22,465 Mod ✭✭✭✭bk


    Vegeta wrote: »
    Walls being chased today. Just wanted to bump this thread to say thanks for all the input.

    Any last minute pearls of wisdom for me?

    Enjoy your lovely new home :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,967 ✭✭✭spaceHopper


    Vegeta wrote: »
    Walls being chased today. Just wanted to bump this thread to say thanks for all the input.

    Any last minute pearls of wisdom for me?

    We did a renovation back in almost a year. Biggest regret is not putting in HDMI cabling. Even if it's only for 1080p. HDMI over a matrix using HDBaseT is much more expensive than pure HDMI.

    If you can run one (two if you can) HDMI's 2.0 to the TV points to a central location. Keep them short 8m or have active repeaters

    Also make sure there is a phone line or something so you can get fiber to the home BB later.

    We have
    5 coax from attic down.
    3 Coax from central location to each of three TV points.
    Each TV point has two cat6 cables.
    Cable or 5.1 Surround in ceiling of main TV Room

    Currently only using one TV point but plan to set up a second before christmas.

    Currently have Virgin Media over cat6 but have Saoirview antenna in attic. And a freesat dish. Both hooked up to main TV and working will get rid of VM Box but keep their Broad band


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,546 ✭✭✭dubrov


    Can I ask what would the advantage of HDMI cabling be?

    Were you hoping to store all your boxes in a central location and if so, what would the plan be for controlling the boxes?


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 2,541 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    Vegeta wrote: »
    Walls being chased today. Just wanted to bump this thread to say thanks for all the input.

    Any last minute pearls of wisdom for me?

    Yep,

    Make sure all the Chase's are external :-)

    Only kidding, enjoy

    Can't remember, did you say it was a bungalow or not ?

    One mistake I made was not thinking enough about the central wiring Point my atric.

    I let the plumber out the water tank at a place that.makes it as awkward as Feck to get to. And the older and fatter I get, the harder it gets.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,394 ✭✭✭✭Vegeta


    It's a dormer bungalow, luckily someone advised moving all water storage out into the shed for access, serviceability and damage mitigation in the event of a leak. Downside is insulated pipe back into the house but it leaves some extra space in the house too so I think it is worth it.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,532 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    I'm going to try not to repeat the excellent advice given by the other posters, but here are a few considerations:
    bk wrote: »
    - Put lots of ethernet cables in, as much as you can reasonably afford, they are very useful

    +100

    A few more points to add to this:

    1) This should be wired in star i.e. each point should be wired back to a common point allowing each to be connected to the switch.

    2) Think about a good central location for the switch, I often recommend the utility room.

    3) In many cases depending on the size of the house and what the walls are made of it is advantageous to have more than one wifi router installed. The best was to achieve this is to wire each wifi router point back to the switch. Natural each router will require a socket outlet, so install this beside the network point.

    4) I would suggest that you wire all ethernet using CAT6.
    Rew wrote: »
    Talked to an alarm fitter recently and he said go wireless, as good as wired and much cleaner install.

    I disagree. From an alarm installers point of view it is a quicker and easier install. It also generates more revenue in the loner term as it guarantees more call backs as batteries in various devices fail.

    Advantages:

    1) Reduced messing around with fiddly cabling.
    2) A device can instantly be installed anywhere without the requirement for a cable to be in place first.
    3) Maximum flexibility.

    Disadvantages
    1) As above each device needs a battery and batteries have a limited lifespan.
    2) Devices such as shock sensors are far less discreet as they require lots of fancy electronics as well as a battery. So they can look pretty ugly on you expensive new windows.
    3) Cost of each device. I am not in the trade, but I can buy a high quality HKC shock sensor for less than €10. The wireless equivalent is around 10 times the cost.
    4) A wired bellbox can be brightly illuminated at all times providing a superior visual deterrent.

    In summary if you can wore it do.

    There is a never ending debate on the home security forum about which alarm is best that I don't want to get into. My preference would b the HKC hybrid one. This can take wired as well as wireless sensor giving you the best of both worlds in addition to app control. It allows me to add all sorts of fancy gadgets like PIRs that send pictures to my app. Like the OP I keep a number of firearms in my home and the Gardai passed my security inspection with flying colours.

    If you have an external building such as a shed you can add this to the same alarm system. My HKC alarm allows me to arm and disarm different zones with different codes, so for example my gun cabinet and shed can be armed while the house is disarmed.
    Cable or 5.1 Surround in ceiling of main TV Room

    Yes, to me sound is very important. Modern extra thin flat screen TVs produce poor quality sound. It is best to select your sound system first and then wire accordingly. You could spend a fortune on a sound system and the sound quality could suffer due to poor positioning of speakers.

    I also wired a pair of ceiling speakers in my kitchen to my main sound system in my sitting room. I can now stream from my phone directly to my kitchen and the sound quality is amazing.

    Doorbell:
    Check out the Nest Hello or the Ring equivalent video doorbells. This is the next must have on my list. Position the doorbell wiring to best suit the fact that a camera is built into the button itself.

    Generator socket:
    If in a rural area that suffers from power outages you may want to consider a generator changeover switch and socket for same. The genny can simply be wheeled out and plugged in when required at a later stage. With a small 6 kVA genny you would be able to do a lot.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym



    If you can run one (two if you can) HDMI's 2.0 to the TV points .

    there is no such thing. cables are labelled either standard or high speed. for peace of mind buy properly certified cables, which means they have been tested, and if they have, they won't be labelled 2.0.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    ceiling speakers for surround sound are not a great choice. they are perfect for the height channels in an atmos setup, but you;d be much better going with inwalls if you want discreet.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 2,541 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    mossym wrote: »
    ceiling speakers for surround sound are not a great choice. they are perfect for the height channels in an atmos setup, but you;d be much better going with inwalls if you want discreet.

    Have to say, I built my house with ceiling speakers in six rooms, fed by 6 Sonos amps.

    Got rid.of the ceiling speakers about 2 years ago (albeit after about 15 years in total). Reason I got rid if them, mainly, draughty, and sound quality.

    My advice, avoind cutting holes in your walls and ceilings to cater for electronic devices that won't last as long as your walls.and ceilings.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    Have to say, I built my house with ceiling speakers in six rooms, fed by 6 Sonos amps.

    Got rid.of the ceiling speakers about 2 years ago (albeit after about 15 years in total). Reason I got rid if them, mainly, draughty, and sound quality.

    My advice, avoind cutting holes in your walls and ceilings to cater for electronic devices that won't last as long as your walls.and ceilings.

    Would 100% agree with you, I'd go for proper bookshelves or floorstanders every time if any priority placed on audio performance. However some prefer asthetics over sound, or simply cannot accommodate separate speakers, and in that case in wall rather than in ceiling every time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,541 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    mossym wrote: »
    Would 100% agree with you, I'd go for proper bookshelves or floorstanders every time if any priority placed on audio performance. However some prefer asthetics over sound, or simply cannot accommodate separate speakers, and in that case in wall rather than in ceiling every time.

    Def agree with the wall speakers instead if the ceiling. Ceiling speakers are a bad idea.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,715 ✭✭✭niallb


    2011 wrote: »
    ... Natural each router will require a socket outlet, so install this beside the network point. ...

    If you're bringing them back to the utility closet, you can choose from the growing number of wireless access points that can be powered over ethernet. It could make things look a lot neater throughout the house. Just pick a POE enabled switch.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,394 ✭✭✭✭Vegeta


    niallb wrote: »
    If you're bringing them back to the utility closet, you can choose from the growing number of wireless access points that can be powered over ethernet. It could make things look a lot neater throughout the house. Just pick a POE enabled switch.

    This is current plan for the house, a few poe wireless access points in areas where wifi is useful but wire as much as possible


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,532 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    mossym wrote: »
    ceiling speakers for surround sound are not a great choice.

    Agreed, I just have a pair in my kitchen ceiling for stereo sound from my main system in the sitting room.

    they are perfect for the height channels in an atmos setup, but you;d be much better going with inwalls if you want discreet.

    I wouldn't be a fan of in wall speakers.
    niallb wrote: »
    If you're bringing them back to the utility closet, you can choose from the growing number of wireless access points that can be powered over ethernet.

    Are POE wifi routers any good? I assumed that they would lack range as the power available over ethernet is so much less. I have never used them so I am open to correction.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,456 ✭✭✭The high horse brigade


    Ethernet had much more power. Poe is up to 48v, most residential routers have a 12v power supply. Check out the Ubiquiti Unifi wireless access points

    https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap/
    Ubiquiti Networks - UniFi® AP


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,532 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Ethernet had much more power. Poe is up to 48v, most residential routers have a 12v power supply. Check out the Ubiquiti Unifi wireless access points

    https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap/
    Ubiquiti Networks - UniFi® AP

    Voltage and power are two very different things.
    A higher voltage does not necessarily mean more power.

    However the specifications on the Ubiquiti units suggest that they have quite a range, nice :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,456 ✭✭✭The high horse brigade


    Unifi are amazing. They're access points though, you still need a router


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    2011 wrote: »

    I wouldn't be a fan of in wall speakers.

    .

    an inwall setup of M&K's or B&W CWM8's will blow away 95% of the setups you'll see in most peoples houses. easily. for me they struggle against their equivalents in separate cabinets though (not everyone would agree). i wouldn't trade my b&w's in for inwalls, but i'd pick those inwalls over a lot of other speakers.

    cheap in walls are worse than cheap cabinets. good inwalls can be very very good.

    anyway, if the op is asking in the home automation forum about speakers i don't think they are considering M&K or equivalent...:)


  • Advertisement
  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    Ethernet had much more power. Poe is up to 48v, most residential routers have a 12v power supply. Check out the Ubiquiti Unifi wireless access points

    https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap/
    Ubiquiti Networks - UniFi® AP

    the max draw on the unifi units is 4 to 6W, that's only 0.5A on a 12V supply(your 5V phone charger pushes more current, ) or 0.125A on a 48V POE supply. both deliver the same amount of power to that unit, and the 12V power supply would be capable of supplying much more.

    neither one will affect the wireless transmit power anyway, it's limited by regulations. it'll max out on either supply.

    the big advantage of the POE is the lack of cables/separate supply allowing you to run a single cable in wall .


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,532 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    mossym wrote: »
    the max draw on the unifi units is 4 to 6W, that's only 0.5A on a 12V supply(your 5V phone charger pushes more current, ) or 0.125A on a 48V POE supply. both deliver the same amount of power to that unit, and the 12V power supply would be capable of supplying much more.

    I understand that. My point was that just because a higher voltage is used by a device does not mean necessarily mean that it has a higher power output.
    the big advantage of the POE is the lack of cables/separate supply allowing you to run a single cable in wall .

    Agreed. The units linked to look very nice. I guess the additional cost is offset by the saving of not having to install a socket outlet.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,532 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    mossym wrote: »
    an inwall setup of M&K's or B&W CWM8's will blow away 95% of the setups you'll see in most peoples houses.

    I have seen them & heard B&W speakers and I agree with you. I just don't like the idea of inwall set up. Personally, I just prefer floor standing or wall mounted.
    cheap in walls are worse than cheap cabinets. good inwalls can be very very good.

    I have a 5.1 Bose speaker system in my sitting room (very large base speaker + 5 small twin cubed speakers). Considering what I paid for it the sound quality is fantastic (in my unqualified opinion). Part of the reason for this is the fact that I was very particular about speaker placement, the speaker cabling is very good quality and the amp is very good (Marantz NR1606). I have no doubt that your system is far superior. I am confident that I will upgrade the speakers some day and when that day comes I won't have large holes in my wall to deal with :)
    anyway, if the op is asking in the home automation forum about speakers i don't think they are considering M&K or equivalent...:)

    You never know.....:)


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    2011 wrote: »
    I understand that. My point was that just because a higher voltage is used by a device does not mean necessarily mean that it has a higher power output.


    i didn't quote your post ?, (agree with what you said, so wasn't trying to explain anything)


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,532 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    mossym wrote: »
    i didn't quote your post ?, (agree with what you said, so wasn't trying to explain anything)

    My bad, apologies


  • Registered Users Posts: 148 ✭✭argolis


    Rather than running any type of cable you can think of, some of which may end up being wasted, just run the cables to the points that you can reasonably expect to use. Then additionally, put in some of this type of conduit with a pull string:

    https://www.leroymerlin.fr/v3/p/produits/gaine-icta-diam-20-mm-l-100-m-e70421?queryredirect=a_fp_gaine_icta_diam_20_mm_l_100_m&numpage=1

    I understand it's difficult to get in Ireland so you might have to order from France or Germany. There's various diameters of it depending on how many cables you might eventually need to add. If you want to pull a new cable, you attach it to the pull string, and a new length of pull string to boot, and then pull both all the way through. That way, you've easily pulled, for example, a new cable from your TV point to your attic and you still have another pull string for the next time you want to add a cable.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,967 ✭✭✭spaceHopper


    dubrov wrote: »
    Can I ask what would the advantage of HDMI cabling be?

    Were you hoping to store all your boxes in a central location and if so, what would the plan be for controlling the boxes?

    Make sure you have good Cat6a Cat 7 cable and HDMI

    A good HDMI a matrix is half the cost of a HDBaseT one.

    To send IR back try
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MS3KL58/ref=asc_df_B01MS3KL5857574294/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22146&creativeASIN=B01MS3KL58&linkCode=df0&hvadid=205215094696&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8848170101432614984&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006870&hvtargid=pla-333765560524


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,532 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    argolis wrote: »
    Rather than running any type of cable you can think of, some of which may end up being wasted, just run the cables to the points that you can reasonably expect to use. Then additionally, put in some of this type of conduit with a pull string:.

    This will only work with ridged conduit systems with little or no bends. The flexible conduit that you have shown in the link below is surprisingly difficult to pull cables through when embedded in a wall. I am speaking from direct experience as I spent 15 years on my tools as an electrician. We would normally stretch and straighten the flexible conduit on the ground to pull cables in.


    Nope. It is easy to buy, for example Eurosales, Kellighers or NEW will be able to get you this in a variety of sizes with ease. Many know it by the brand name of "Copex". I would recommend avoiding it for the reasons given, instead use the largest ridged conduit alternative available as this is far more likely to work.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,394 ✭✭✭✭Vegeta


    niallb wrote: »
    Just pick a POE enabled switch.

    Hey folks, have 8U cabinet and patch panel in place. Next step is to get a POE enabled switch. Any recommendations?


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 2,715 ✭✭✭niallb


    Recommendations will depend on which access points you're planning on using.
    There are standards 802.3af and 802.3at to support POE at up to gigabit speeds,
    but there are other proprietary 'passive' switches that will work with some brands and not with others.
    Some brands allow you to use a POE injector which creates a lot more cabling mess, but at least it's all in the cabinet.

    You won't need (or want) POE on the ports that are going to your TV for example.
    A POE switch with sensing is not cheap so keep the number of ports down to close to what you need.
    A lot of the simpler ones might have 4 POE ports and 4 unpowered or some other split.

    What's the total number of points around the house?
    Add a few for a storage device in the cabinet or anything else that can be kept out of sight.


Advertisement